January 18, 2010
The island of Elba is Italian, and has been so for much of the past three or four thousand years, but it is inextricably linked with French history. It was, of course, the place where Napoleon was banished for his first period of exile.
Elba is a small island, about 10 miles across, some 86 square miles in area. It is situated about a dozen miles off the Tuscan coast of Italy, to the east of the French island of Corsica. Despite its diminutive size, it is an interesting cruising ground and is a worthwhile destination in its own right.
In about 500 B.C., the Etruscans captured the island from the indigenous population. The Etruscans were basically Italians, although Italy as such had not been formed at this time. As the Romans came to power, they kicked out the Etruscans and took over the island. The big attraction of such a small island was the copious supply of iron-ore. The smelting of iron was the principal industry of Elba in these early days.
It stayed a part of Italy until 1603, when Philip of Spain captured the eastern town of Azzurro, which he fortified and from which the Spanish controlled most of the island. After a couple of hundred years of Spanish rule, the French took over in 1802, and they were still in control when Napoleon was sent there in 1814.
During his stay on the island, he was allowed to keep his personal guards, which numbered some 600 soldiers. The French government made him the nominal sovereign of Elba, but forbade him to leave, and the British Navy made sure that he stayed put, by mounting constant patrols off the island.
Napoleon stayed in Elba for almost a year, before deciding he needed to return to the action of running France. He escaped one night by stowing away on a ship. He sailed to Golfe Juan on the French Riviera. He might just as well have stayed put in Elba, because after just a hundred days in power, he lost the Battle of Waterloo, and the Brits sent him off to the island of St. Helena in the South Atlantic, where he died.
Elba returned to the Italians in 1860, and apart from a brief spell of German occupation in WWII, it has remained Italian ever since. It is quite curious, and totally uncharacteristic, that it was French troops who liberated the island from the Germans and returned it to Italian hands.
If you arrive from a port outside the EU, the only port of entry for Elba is Porto Azzurro, on the east coast. The port offers two small marinas, which are usually full, but in all except easterly winds, you can anchor off the entrance. There are also good anchorages to the west, in the bay of Molo, or the east, in the bay of Barbarossa.
If you want a berth inside the port, reach the Capitaneria at +39 0565 951 95; if you want to clear in, customs is at +39 0565 9151 61.
The largest of Philip’s Spanish forts is on the eastern side of the entrance, and cannot be missed. It dominates the harbor.
If you don’t have to clear into the EU, I prefer to enter Elba at Portoferraio on the north coast. This is a picturesque little harbor and town, and is much more geared up to yachts. In all normal conditions there is plenty of space to anchor out in the bay, to the east of the town, if you cannot find space in the port. Make sure to stay clear of the channel for the ferries though, otherwise they will make your life miserable. In the summer the ferries run almost continuously.
In the harbor itself, smaller boats can go stern-to on the public quay along the northwest side, or sometimes there is space on the quay on the southeast side. Larger yachts go stern-to the wall on the northeast side, in front of the entrance to the walled old town. Really big yachts will be directed to a berth in the commercial port, where the ferries berth, to the west of the town.
If you are going onto the public quay, you can either take a chance and pick an empty spot or you can call the Capitaneria +39 0565 918 589. For a larger yacht, it is almost certainly worth using an agent to ensure you get a decent spot off the old town, and is essential if you need a berth in the commercial port.
We have used agents with Sacomar and they have always taken good care of us (www.sacomar.it; info@sacomar.it; +39 0565 914797). Giovanni or Massimo can not only help you with berths, but they can organize almost anything from fuel to transportation, shopping or just advice.
My favorite berth is in front of the clock, at the entrance through the old city walls. To pass through the gates there is to step back into time. This part of the old town is perfectly preserved, and it does not take too much imagination to visualize Napoleon and his entourage bustling down the street to visit the harbor.
As an added bonus, just inside the gates is the most marvellous shop selling all things chocolate. It is almost worth going to Elba just to visit this shop.
The house where Napoleon lived is above the old town, and it is now a museum. It is richly decorated and houses a selection of furniture that may or may not have been used by the emperor during his sojourn on Elba. The views alone make the house worth a visit. He picked the perfect spot for a house.
There is a plethora of little shops, bars and restaurants scattered throughout the town. A walk up to the ridge above the town, especially just before sunset, will reward you with unforgettable views.
If you can ever tear yourself away from the delights of Portoferraio and the chocolate shop, then there are several nice bays to visit, both on the north coast and on the south. There are good anchorages and fantastic beaches on the south coast.
However, part of this coast is now included in the national park, so there may be restrictions on anchoring imposed from time to time. If you see a totally empty bay, with nobody anchored, it is a fair bet that anchoring is prohibited. A call to Sacomar to confirm the latest restrictions would be worthwhile.
A drive around the island is worth the effort. There are several small mountain villages that are good to explore. Marciana, on the slopes of Mount Capanne, is one of the best. It is a fairly well preserved Roman town.
For the energetic, there are various marked hiking trails that go up to the top of Mount Capanne. It is more than 3,500 feet (1,000m) high, so it is not for the faint-hearted. If you do one of these walks in summer, go early and take plenty of water and sunscreen. The less-energetic can drive to the top of Mount Perone. It is about 2,000 feet (630m) and has views over much of the island and across to the mainland.
I could easily spend a week or two exploring Elba. In fact I think I will go back and do just that one of these days. Somebody has to make sure that the chocolate shop is maintaining its standards.
Capt. John Campbell has been yacht captain for more than 20 years and a sailor all his life. He recently moved ashore to start his own business making memory books for yacht owners and charter guests. For more, visit www.seascribe.eu. Comments on this story are welcome at editorial@the-triton.com.
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